Du Bu Gong Bang Duluth Korean-style tofu (dubu), glorious and custardy, made in-house every morning, is the star of this Duluth newcomer. Whether plain white, fiery with kimchi, or nestled among oysters, Du Bu’s luxurious, super-silken soon dubu jjigae (soft tofu stew) is sped to the table in a bubbling clay pot. With rice and an assortment of banchan, it’s plenty for two to share. Make it a combo, and between slurps, you can nosh on L.A. kalbi–style short ribs, classic Korean pork ’cue, or grilled mackerel. I love nibbling the sticky, sweet flanken ribs with the tiny bone in the middle—an American invention that came about when Korean cooks in Los Angeles began to source their beef from Mexican butchers. For some diners, the seafood and scallion pancake, cooked on a griddle and snipped tableside into wedges, may in fact eclipse the tofu. –Wendell Brock Raik Mediterranean Suwanee Palestinian chef Faiq Usman’s old Cafe Raik in Duluth—long a reliable destination for textbook falafel, hummus, shawarma, and kebabs—recently reemerged as Raik Mediterranean in Suwanee. Happily, the luscious eggplant dips, pristine sal-ads, and warm, pillowy pitas survived the move. A handsomely designed space with a full bar, Raik has a menu full of flavors from the Palestin-ian region. It still offers seriously cravings-causing stuffed pitas and impeccable za’atar-sprinkled fries. Try the cutely named shawafel (only avail-able at lunch)—that would be chicken shawarma and falafel packed in a pita pocket with all the crunchy, saucy things: fresh cucumber and to-mato, pickled red cabbage, and herby green and classic blond tahinis. Or wow your table with a feast: shareable spreads, fresh greens (perhaps tabbouleh and fattoush), and a plate of smoky grilled kebabs (filet mignon, salmon, veggies, or my forever fave: a ground beef and lamb mix). Raik’s falafel, let it be said, is mandatory. –WB Capolinea Nàdair North Druid Hills You need not know a whit about Scottish cuisine to appreciate Kevin Gillespie’s seasonal menu, memento-filled bar, and tartan-accented dining room—honoring not only the chef’s family heritage but his Southern sensibilities. Nàdair (the Scots Gaelic word for “the way of nature”) now reigns in the former Floataway Cafe space. As you approach, the only signage is a mounted brass-and-bronze crest of a lion near the front door. Once you’re inside, a Celtic-huntsman’s vibe prevails in a bar with framed family tartans, grouse and pheasant illustrations, and displayed deer antlers. (Gillespie has even taken to wearing a kilt when cooking nightly at the restaurant.) Winning signature cocktails (the basil gimlet is divine) are a nice prelude to ordering a la carte at the bar. Making reservations is a must, however, for the full prix fixe dinner experience. Must-tries: wood oven–roasted Georgia mushrooms, wood-grilled Wagyu beef coulotte, grilled scallop and peach-glazed pork belly, and Grandma Coylene’s banoffee pie (salted graham crumble, toffee sauce, fried banana, and white chocolate cream). Scene-stealer: the Aberdeen Buttery, a stunning knotted dinner roll from sous-chef Olivia McCoy. –VF MAR T H A WI LLI AM S Capolinea Downtown The first thing you notice when you enter Capolinea, the Italian restaurant within Signia by Hilton, is the attention to architectural detail, from the pearl-encrusted chandeliers to the floor-to-ceiling windows offering stunning views of Mercedes-Benz Stadium. At a recent dinner, there was plenty to ooh and aah over at the restaurant helmed by executive sous-chef Jeuel Ortiz, a hotel veteran who spent time in Texas and Montana before making his way to Atlanta. It started with the bread service. The bread itself was freshly baked, but it was the smoky, tingly housemade Calabrian chili butter that made my dinner date and me look at each other and smile (before polishing off the ramekin). Then there was the martini trolley. I usually avoid martinis for fear that they’ll put me under the table, but I couldn’t resist the allure of a drink prepared tableside; I opted for the Sicilian, a blend of gin, vermouth, marsala, and amaretto, with an almond-stuffed olive garnish. It’s a showstopper, with vapor emanating from the liquid hydrogen used to make the drinks crisply cold. Other stars of the evening included the ravioli stuffed with braised duck and the simply prepared spaghetti al pomodoro, made with housemade pasta and a bright, fresh tomato sauce. You’ll want to save room for pastry chef Daniella Lea Rada’s artful desserts, such as La Farfalla (“the butterfly”), a lavender crémeux (akin to a mousse) served alongside butterfly pea flower powder gelato in a periwinkle hue—the color deepens when it melds with the limoncello marmalade. –Lia Picard Pizza Verdura Sincera Little Five Points Trying a new place where a beloved ice cream counter once stood stirs nostalgia. There is comfort, though, in seeing the Zesto’s mural intact on the wall by the parking lot, even if it triggers a craving for a Nut Brown Crown. But restaurant life goes on, and now the draw is pizza, specifically plant-based pies. They’re served in an open room with a bohemian, industrial vibe—exposed brick, aqua paint, cement floors, cherry-stained wood, and high ceilings. Seating includes banquettes, a communal table, and a few barstools (there’s beer on tap and wine). Choose from half a dozen specialty pizzas and a few seasonal salads. The fresh pizza dough (made using organic, non-GMO flour) produces a light, golden-brown crust with toasty bubbles along the rim, and a sweet and tasty blend of vegan mozzarella and cheddar ups the flavor. The standout pizza is the Messicano, with spicy vegan sausage, peppers, roasted corn, onion, garlic, and ginger for extra kick. –VF August 2025 • Atlanta 143
Atlanta Magazine Atlanta Magazine August 2025: Page-143
